Capturing history that’s off-limits for public: Anirban Mitra on his latest photo collection of Bengal’s colonial mansions

Mitra’s idea was to capture and bring to life those parts of Bengal’s colonial history that are off-limits for the general public. His coffee-table book containing close to 75 photographs, published by Vikram Solar, offer a glimpse into the formidable, yet secretive worlds of four large colonial mansions in the state: The Raj Bhavan, the erstwhile residence of the governors-general and the seat of British power in India; the Belvedere Estate, which is the former residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal; Barrackpore; and the Darjeeling Government House.

The visual narrative has its roots in 2006 when Mitra first conducted several prestigious exhibitions of his work. Designed by Amitava Kumar, the photographic display in the book is accompanied by textual narratives written by Gouri Basu who works with the Ministry of Culture.

In an interview with Indianexpress.com, Mitra spoke at length about the history of these colonial mansions and why their allure has remained intact years after Independence.

Excerpts from the interview:

What drew you to the Government Houses and Estates of Bengal?

Well, my photography has always focused on narratives: a certain thematic approach to tell a story with imaging and compositions. I have worked extensively on Calcutta’s history, a city which I have always believed has rich, shared heritage, especially with Britain and Europe…and I say that Calcutta has a mixed parentage of a British father and a Bengali mother! When (founder of Calcutta) Job Charnock landed here, there were three swampy villages – Sutanuti, Govindpur and Calcutta. And the series of events that unfolded, eventually led to the city of Calcutta, as it came to be known. So my intention was to show these two parallel narratives through my photographs – the history of the native Bengali and the footprints of the British in Bengal; both being an integral part of our history and heritage.

The Barrackpore Flag Staff House (Reproduced with permission from Anirban Mitra)

One of my previous books (Calcutta: Stately Homes and Palaces) captures the quintessence of the Bangali bonedi baris (traditional houses) published by the Ministry of Culture. And the current edition covers the first-residences and some of the most important mansions of the Raj Era and their importance post-1947.

What made you narrow down on these four estates of Bengal?

Well, within Bengal, these were the palatial residences and estates of the chiefs of Imperial rule in India… The very seat of power. And these continue to have constitutional and national identity of immense importance. It’s a journey in time.

Secondly, I wanted to be an explorer and visual-chronicler of the premises which are off-limits to the general public. These are places where one cannot really visit without special permission. In that sense, these spaces are also a point of great intrigue for people. The Raj Bhavan, for instance, is an overwhelmingly huge and magnificent building where the Governor of West Bengal resides, and it is his office. One wonders about its interiors and the spaces, the embellishments. So, my photographs were impressions of a curious visitor with the camera: my awe and emotions in visual form, you can say.

Likewise, Belvedere was the then Lt Governor of Bengal’s residence, now The National Library, Barrackpore was the weekend retreat, Darjeeling the summer refuge, and like that.

What about Raj Bhavan struck you the most?

It will not be an overstatement to say that the Raj Bhavan (the erstwhile Government House) of Calcutta was the most important building in British India till the capital moved to Delhi in 1911. It was the seat of Imperial power and has a rich and chequered history, interwoven with India for more than a couple of centuries.

Raj Bhawan was the most important building in British India. (Reproduced with permission from Anirban Mitra)

Its sheer scale and grandeur are quite unmatched. It is a classic case of Imperial extravaganza, for which, in fact, Lord Wellesley, the then Governor-General of India, who had commissioned the house, was criticised by his superiors in England.

So, the monumentality of the architecture and the spaces it holds within and around, I found evocative and interesting to portray in photographic compositions… That was the idea – a sort of photo-biography of the building, you can say!

Among the four estates that you have captured, which one fascinated you the most?

The four estates have their own unique appeal, yes. If you go to Belvedere Estate in Alipore, for instance, it has its roots in the 1760s when Mir Jafar was in Calcutta, being deposed from Murshidabad, and he took refuge in Alipore and built several buildings there, the Belvedere House being one of them, which (some say) he later gifted to Warren Hastings, the first Governor-General.

So the estate has very old roots and a fascinating story of ownership, events and tales of poignancy and rivalry – of romances and gunshots of duels being fought on its grounds. The building played host to several important men and Lt Governors of Bengal. It was a favourite residence of Hastings, and there are historical accounts and letters written by him to his wife, brooding in the solitude of Belvedere amid vast expanses of lush greenery and a garden of great beauty. As an estate, in a sense, Belvedere was more scenic than the Government House, which is certainly more formidable, though. The latter gives a sense of authority, but it is more ‘at home’ at Belvedere! Quite an oasis of an English country house, away from the hustle of Calcutta and reminiscent of tales of haunting and fond overtones and of pathos.

The Belvedere House was gifted by Mir Jafar to governor-general Warren Hastings (Reproduced with permission from Anirban Mitra)

Barrackpore, the British often referred to it as ‘Little England’, is a beautiful scenic place alongside the river Hooghly, dotted with a Government House, bungalows, gardens, cathedrals, commemorative monuments, statues and more. The governors-general would spend stretches of their time at Barrackpore, especially during weekends and repose. There are beautiful watercolours and writings of Lady Charlotte Canning, depicting her affection and leisure days at Barrackpore.And last, but not least, the Darjeeling Government House, a sort of oasis located at one of the prettiest places in Darjeeling amid the shrubbery near the Observatory Hill. The premise gives a true sense of the unspoilt beauty of Darjeeling as the Queen of Hills and what it was in the bygone era, before it was bitten by the uncontrolled urbanisation we now unfortunately see.

So, in summary, the aforesaid mansions and estates overall paint a picture of life in British India, the continuing exclusivity of elite spaces and the silent stories they embody within their constructs and the light and shade playing therein. Now, that was the essence of my interest and subject for photography.

Did you observe any Indian architectural influence in these buildings?

It will be better for a professional to answer the technical aspects. However, I do observe that these buildings are great examples of colonial architecture with mixed influences derived from Western designs and suited to functionalities in tune with the Indian weather and context. Especially if you consider the height of the ceilings and the size of the windows – I think they were made to have the wind and light play better within the interiors.